WD’s Guide to Making Clothes Last

If your favorite jeans could talk, they might cry. Their existence is, frankly, harrowing: endless days spent absorbing sweat from one side and dirt from the other before a week or two crumpled in the laundry basket, then sudden submersion in a water-filled machine that hurls and spins. And then there's the dryer—extreme heat combined with flying through the air. (Lint is clothing that's coming apart, folks.) And these are your favorite jeans, the ones you care about. You'd be in a bad mood too.

As women, we know how to shop. The problem is, many of us aren't so good at taking care of our clothes, which shortens their lifespan and can as much as double our clothing expenses. So I put some experts through the wringer to find out the best way to care for our duds.

Buy Smart

Believe it or not, that $10 shirt might survive until 2030, while the $100 one might not make it though the season. "Price doesn't always equal quality," says Billie Collier, PhD, dean of the College of Human Sciences and professor of textiles at Florida State University. "Moderately priced apparel may actually have better-quality construction, so consumers need to pay attention to the materials." Here's what to look for:

Construction. This is code for sturdiness. The lazy way to determine construction is to imagine the item going through your washing machine 100 times—will it survive? The better way is to spread your hand underneath the fabric. If you can't see through to your hand, the fabric is thick and probably fairly durable. Also look for tight stitching along the seams, durable finishing on the seams so they won't unravel, and reinforced high-stress areas like the crotch and armpits. Well-made clothing is also often lined, which protects the outer layer from body oils.

Fabric. Yes, "natural" fibers are in vogue right now, but if you're going to invest in clothes, you should know that those supersoft natural fibers like cotton, wool and silk can shrink and fade, and won't necessarily last long. In fact, while natural fibers do breathe well, they are not as abrasion-resistant as synthetics like nylon and polyester. "Most synthetic fibers, like polyester and nylon, are stronger and can withstand repeated laundering," says Dr. Collier. Blends, such as 50% cotton-polyester, are often your best bet because they breathe but are also durable. Photo: iStockphoto

Wear Smart

The operative word here is rotate. Split your clothing into three groups (each group should include both work and weekend outfits), then wear each group for 6 to 8 weeks, or however long you want the cycle to be. That way you're sure to wear all your clothes, instead of a few items all the time and the rest hardly ever. Each item in the group should be worn at least twice over a two-week period before washing. This is because laundering clothing shortens its lifespan—and Americans are chronic over-washers. As long as an item doesn't smell and isn't noticeably stained, it can be reworn. Between wears, air out clothes on back-of-the-door hooks. Pants can be worn 3 or 4 times, and let's be honest: Jeans can easily swing 3-plus wears. You'll also keep clothes fresher if you always wear undies. Yes, you read that correctly. Undergarments of all sorts—panties, undershirts, long underwear, etc.—lengthen the lives of clothing by protecting it from its major foe: body oils, which attract bacteria that can cause odor problems. Photo: iStockphoto

Wash and Dry Smart

Follow the label instructions. This sounds obvious, but I bet you've never read the instructions on the clothes you're wearing right now. A tip: "If it says 'dry-clean recommended,' or just 'dry-clean,' you can handwash without damaging the product," says Diane Limbaugh, clinical instructor in design at Oklahoma State in Stillwater. "If it says 'dry-clean only', it means dry-clean only."

Sort. Once you know what the instructions say, group like with like. "Denim and heavy towels will be more abrasive in the washer," says Robert McKechnie, manager of new product development at Electrolux, so not only should you sort by color, but also wash heavy items together, delicates together and soft cottons together.

Wash the right way. Yes, overwashing wears out clothes. But so does dirt. "Dirt breaks down fibers," says Pat Slaven, leader in the technical division at Consumer Reports. So if something is dirty, wash it. Don't let it sit crumpled in a corner for weeks.

Generally speaking, most everyday clothes (T-shirts, khakis, sweatshirts) can be washed on the warm setting (around 90°–105°F). Go with the cold setting (60°–80°F) for softs (sweaters), delicates (lingerie, lace, sheer fabrics) and jeans. Hot water (110°–120°F) does indeed wash clothes well, but it also can make clothing fade, because hot water degrades fabrics faster than cool water. So only use hot for cotton underwear, undershirts, towels and workout clothes. If you need to sanitize an item (kids' clothing, clothes worn by someone with a cold), warm water will adequately kill basic germs, but to really sanitize, choose the "extra-hot" setting, which heats the water to 160°–170°F; this is also the temperature needed to really remove body oils in conjunction with detergent. Yes, this is why your grandma washed sheets in boiling water as a girl.

As for which cycle to use, choose the gentlest one that's appropriate for the material—which for most officeappropriate clothing is the gentle cycle. "The 'normal' cycle on most washers is designed for heavy-duty cotton fabrics like towels, jeans and undershirts," says Chris Shanley, a senior product manager at Bosch Appliances. As a rule of thumb, the less pulling, stretching, abrading and agitation, the longer the clothes will last. This means that you should never overstuff a washing machine, because clothes that are too close together don't wash well, and also grind against each other without enough water in between, damaging fabrics.

Always close zippers, button buttons, tie loose strings and ties together so they won't catch, and put delicates in delicates bags. To protect any delicate prints or beaded items, turn them inside out before putting them in the delicates bag. Photo: iStockphoto

One more thing: If you're a chronic bleach user, know that "chlorine-based bleach is very aggressive in stain removal, but also has a tendency to attack fabrics," says McKechnie. So go with nonchlorine bleach, or only use bleach every third wash for whites.

Dry the right way. This one's easy: Avoid machine-drying when you can. "The tumbling motion of the dryer causes friction between clothing, thereby gradually degrading clothing fibers, and in some instances causing pilling on some fabrics," says McKechnie. However, if hanging clothes on a line isn't feasible, dry clothes for as short a time as necessary. Set the dryer on the gentlest setting that's appropriate for the material—this is "permanent press" for most office-appropriate clothing, and "normal" for sheets and linens. Set the timer for 30 minutes or so, and check back promptly, pulling out items as they are just about dry or even slightly damp. Newer dryers have moisture sensors, and will shut off automatically when clothes are dry. Photo: Tom Schierlitz / Getty Images

Store Smart

I've got three little words for you: clean, dark and dry. "That sums up the requirements of proper storage for all clothing and textiles, regardless of their fiber content," says Celia Stall-Meadows, EdD, a professor in the department of design, housing and merchandising at Oklahoma State University. Don't store clothes you've just worn or that have stains, since stains that are invisible become darkened over time, and soiled clothing also attracts insects such as moths, which are attracted to wool, and silverfish, which are attracted to cotton. Sunlight is the enemy of clothing, so make sure the storage space is dark, but also make sure clothing is completely dry before it's stored—mold and mildew grow in damp, dark places. If an item feels slightly damp from the dryer, lay it out to air-dry.

How to Store What

Button-down shirts. should be hung with the top, middle and bottom buttons fastened, to prevent stretching.

Dresses and suits. are best hung on thick, wide hangers that don't stretch out the shoulders and allow them to keep their natural shape.

Pants. Trousers remain wrinkle-free and get maximum air circulation if you hang them by their cuffs. If that's not an option, hang them over special thick-barred hangers, which prevent a horizontal crease mid-leg.

Skirts. Many skirts do best on skirt hangers, which clip on the waist of the skirt, thereby avoiding folds and helping hold their shape. Unlined skirts can also be rolled and stored in drawers.

Knits. Sweaters and all knitted items should either be folded in drawers or on closet shelves, or, if you don't have space, draped over the hanger bar (not hung on the hanger) to prevent stretching.Photo: George Caswell / Getty Images

Storing Mistakes

Overcrowding. You want airflow in your closet, so loosely stack items, and leave enough space between hangers so items can air out.

Moisture. New homes increasingly place washer/dryer sets inside walk-in closets, which is a mistake because every time you open the washer or dryer door, you release that moisture right into the wardrobe, where natural fibers can get damaged.

Plastic. Clothing should never be placed in airtight plastic. Humidity can cause moisture within the bag—and you'll end up with mold or mildew.

Dry-cleaning bags. They trap dry-cleaning chemicals that need to evaporate, which can cause discoloration or yellowing.

Starch. It's a magnet for silverfish, which will dine on it—eating holes through the fabric—making a scrumptious dessert out of your wardrobe. If you must starch clothing, do so a day or two before wearing it, and place it away from your closet. Photo: George Caswell / Getty Images

A Word on Moths

If you see moths in your house, don't be alarmed. "They are most certainly not clothes moths," says Bruce Walsh, PhD, a professor of ecology and evolution at the University of Arizona. "Clothes moths are tiny as adults, 1/4 to 1/2 inch, and, hence, are almost always overlooked." Moths feed on fibers that come from living animals or plants—feathers, fur, wool, cotton, silk, animal hair, wigs—and the first signs of moths that most people see, unfortunately, are holes in clothing. But if you look around, you'll see their excrement, called frass, which looks like sawdust or sand. "It will reappear a few days after being cleaned up," says Dr. Walsh.

If you do suspect moths, you don't need to douse your closet in chemicals. Instead, get all of your natural fibers dry-cleaned and wash everything else to kill wandering eggs and larvae. Put items that you know are infested, or nonwashables like hats, in a plastic bag in the freezer for a week—the cold will kill any larvae and eggs, says Dr. Walsh. Then vacuum under rugs and baseboards. If you are determined to use mothballs or cedar, follow the instructions on the package, but keep in mind that both only work in high concentrations in enclosed or airtight spaces. Photo: Thinkstock

De-smell Your Duds

We all have that blouse that still reeks, no matter how many times we've washed it. Clothing Doctor Steve Boorstein, creator of the DVD Clothing Care: The Clothing Doctor's Secrets to Taking Control, sniffs out the solution:

Use a fan. Periodically airing out your closet will prevent a multitude of sins, including mold and must, as well as numerous insect visitors who prefer calm surroundings. If mildew has been a problem, consider permanently running a small dehumidifier.

Wash before you wear. New clothing is often sprayed with antimold and antibacterial chemicals that you don't want anywhere near your skin, and many manufacturing odors will come back with a vengeance after you perspire into the clothing, so it's best to wash first. don't try it on, then put it back. Body oils, perspiration and skin cells come off your body whether you're wearing something for a couple of minutes or all day. So even if you just try something on, don't put it back into your closet or drawer—air it out until you wear and wash it. Photo: Studio 504 / Getty Images